The Perfect Taco

“Everyone knows Boston is a Mexican food desert.”
- NotForTourists.com

Putting aside the irony that Mexican food is intrinsically associated with deserts, I can see why the writer would make such a broad statement. Allow me to illustrate with a recent experience:

“I see one of your daily specials is enchiladas,” I said to our waitress at Fajitas and ‘Ritas. “What kind are they?”

“Well…” she hedged. “There’s chicken inside. But they’re not really enchiladas.”

Say what?!? (I somehow keep this reaction to myself).

“We don’t have corn tortillas. Or enchilada sauce,” she continues. Then she gestures at the liquid half of the chips and salsa my friend and I have been absentmindedly munching on. “We put this on top instead.”

She looks kind of ashamed after this speech. And I think she should be.



Call me a Mexican food purist, but I’m from Arizona, a place that not only knows its Mexican, but Sonoran, Mexico City style, Tex-Mex, and New Mexican (two words: green chile). Where there are 24-hour family-owned Mexican restaurants serving up all the horchata, sour cream, and greasy burrito goodness that a drunken college student could ever want at 3 a.m. Where Taco Bell is tolerated only because it’s cheap, not because it’s authentic.

Imagine my dismay when I moved across the country, to find that all the Mexican restaurants seem to be hiding. Hibernating, if you will. Even Taco Bell’s pale shadow has been diminished by the weaker New England sun! There are only a handful of Taco Bells in the Boston metro area. Apparently, there’s not even a large market for generic Mexican food out here.

This leaves me in desperate straits, a junkie looking for a Mexican fix. The taco bar at Au Bon Pain could only temporarily ease my cravings.

So I have set out on a quest to find a Mexican place in Boston—and as if they’re not reclusive enough, I’d like to find some that meet my standards. My friend Ashley, also originally from Arizona, has been attending BU for four years, and warned me that it was futile. I wouldn’t find anything like what I was used to. But I had to try.

In a city famed for its Italian food, and a healthy crop of Asian restaurants in Chinatown, I can’t figure out why Boston’s Mexican cuisine has been so…watered down. But philosophizing about authenticity and global culinary exchange would be tedious and misses the point. Here’s where my epic mission has taken me so far:

Fajitas and ‘Ritas

Oh, the irony of offering enchiladas which lack both the characteristics an enchilada must have! By now, you will have cottoned on that I was disillusioned, to say the least. But also hungry, so I ordered a burrito. It was certainly tasty, but basic, and weeks later I am still nursing a grudge against the faux enchiladas.

My margarita, however, was well-made, affordable, and took the edge off my disgruntlement. I can’t speak for the quality of the fajitas, but the restaurant lives up to at least half of its name. That’s more than the enchiladas could boast.

A casual and colorful place, with indifferent food. But if you are surrounded by friends and the tequila is flowing, maybe that won’t matter so much.

Herrera’s

Just a few minutes away from Fajitas and ‘Ritas, Herrera’s caters to the lunch crowd. There seems to always be a bit of a line, but it moves fast. And it was delicious! It actually reminds me of the 24-hour places I waxed nostalgic about earlier in this post. My tacos were swimming in grease, and considering the fast food-like venue I was in, that’s a good thing.

Plus, the rice and beans that came on the side were the best I’ve had so far in Boston. Yes, they’re side dishes, but that can really make or break a meal. Is this just me?

Really affordable, really quick, and they have carts out around Downtown Crossing if you’re really in a hurry for a handmade burrito. Oh, and they have enchiladas on the menu. I’ll definitely be back to give those a shot. Mmmm…

Zuma’s

Located at Quincy Market, this basement Tex-Mex eatery is a hidden jewel among the pubs and food court fare clustered around Faneuil Hall. There wasn’t much of a wait, our waiter faithfully brought us basket upon basket of tortilla chips (piping hot and crusted with salt, just like they should be!), and dinner (with the obvious Tex-Mex spin) was delicious.

I really enjoyed my enchiladas, although of course, they were a divergence from traditional Mexican fare. Not being a huge student of Tex-Mex recipes, I couldn’t tell you what specifically was different, but I happily cleaned my plate.

Oh, and Zuma’s margaritas are divine. And sold by the pitcher, if you’re planning on making a night of it!

I’ve also been told I need to try Anna’s Taqueria, and have heard about the famous chicken mole of Angela’s Café. If anyone has been either of those places, and has an opinion about it, please let me know! And of course, other recommendations for Boston’s most authentic south-of-the-border fare are welcome. I’ll try not to be a West Coast snob about it…:-)