Thursday, August 6, 2009

Taste of Spain in Brookline


Boston has its share of tapas bars, but to me, none have lived up to Taberna de Haro, on the Brookline/Boston border on Beacon Street in the Audubon Circle (at the St. Mary's stop on the green C line). At first glance, this small 10-table restaurant has no physical redeeming features. Its sign is plastic and its nearest culinary neighbors are Dunkin Donuts and a Chinese restaurant. Don’t pass this place by, as you’ll be rewarded by its authentic Spanish ambience as you step inside. European memorabilia, a bookcase of cookbooks, funky decorations, and wine bottles line the mustard walls—and helpful, Spanish-speaking waitstaff are quick to make you feel welcome. For a quick, casual bite, do as the Spanish do, and sit at the three-seat bar.


Tapas, meaning “small plates,” are meant to be shared around the table, and my friends and I usually chose two to three each. Even the pickiest eaters will find something on this extensive menu of over fifty items ($4 to $25). Written in Spanish with descriptions in English, it is organized by house specialties, meat, fowl, fish, and vegetables. My roommate lived in Seville and had told me to order the traditional tortilla, a simple egg and potato dish, and pisto, a sort of ratatouille, which must be tried. I had never tried fava beans, and was pleasantly surprised at how delish they were when fried up with Spanish ham and served in a little ceramic dish.

You can experiment with the exotic, too. Try the half rabbit roasted with brandy, sautéed frog legs, and duck leg with brandy reduction. I highly recommend the chorizo braised in sparkling cider, which combines salty, spicy sausage with a sticky sweet sauce. Each dish pairs simple, quality ingredients with the right combination of garlic, extra virgin olive oil, and spices. Add a bottle or two off their wine list, from $26 to $150. You have over 150 bottles to choose from, but I like the cava, a traditional Spanish sparkling wine or sherry.

Take advantage of Boston’s excruciatingly short summer by dining on their sidewalk umbrella-ed tables. The wait is a bit longer, but it is worth it since outdoor dining is a rare commodity in Brookline and allows for prime people-watching. To sit outside, each person needs to order food at a minimum of $20, so don’t plan to come for sunset drinks only. In the European spirit, plan to spend a leisurely few hour siesta with friends, a smorgasbord of plates, and a creamy flan dessert.

999 Beacon Street
Brookline MA 02446
617 277 8272
Hours: Closed on Sunday
Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10:00
Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11:00

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