Wally's Cafe: Old-School Jazz

A couple of blocks away from Symphony Hall in the South End, depending on who you talk to as it borders Roxbury, sits Wally’s Café. You won’t find coffee at Wally’s, but rather steaming hot jazz.

Wally’s is in a nondescript brownstone on the corner of Mass. Ave. and Columbus (427 Mass. Ave. to be precise). Near boarded up buildings, if it is winter, you might just walk right by without noticing it. But on a hot summer night, the music and the people spill out onto the sidewalk, giving you a clue as to what you will find inside.

While I have been a fan lately of Beehive, mainly because of my need to multitask (dinner and music, two down in one shot), Wally’s has long been one of my favorite spots. It’s casual and easy to get to, and, as with most things authentically Boston, it is steeped in history.

They opened at a time when that stretch of Mass. Ave. was literally covered with jazz and blues clubs. That was the scene. The place to be. All are now gone except for Wally’s, which is still owned by the family of its founder Joseph Walcott. It is also blocks away from not just Symphony Hall, but also Berklee College of Music and the New England Conservatory of Music.

It is that proximity that provides the energy to the club. While they have set bands that have the place booked 365 days a year, there are always spontaneous jam sessions as musicians wander in and are welcome to sit in for a spell.

There’s nothing pretentious or upscale about Wally’s. It’s the same neighborhood spot that it has always been since the late 40s. There’s no cover, but there is a two-drink minimum. You may be lucky enough to get a seat at the bar or at one of the few tables that line the narrow room that ends at the stage, but once the music starts, it’s generally standing room only. (The photo here was taken very early in the evening.) If you can’t make it to the bar, the waitress will probably find you as you get jostled around with the crowd.

Little has changed over the years. When the state changed the smoking law the air got a little cleaner. And while it’s nice to go home without reeking of cigarette smoke, the atmosphere got a little more sterile as well. (While I don’t smoke and appreciate the smoke-free environment everywhere else, there’s something about smoke and jazz that seems to go together.) While the bar is well-stocked, they have only recently added a grill behind the counter. But if you get hungry during the night, your best bet is to pop out to the local pizza place on the corner. The current owners, the children of the founder, have also done a pretty good job promoting the place. But while it’s become less of a hidden gem and more of a tourist spot, there is still the feel that it’s really our local spot.

So, if you are looking for a night of hot jazz and ice cold beer, Wally’s is the place to go. Just don’t tell anyone I told you!