The Enormous Room and Cantab Lounge

What's in a name?

The ironically named Enormous Room is located in Cambridge at 569 Mass. Ave., but you may still find its entryway elusive. The bar is identifiable from the street solely by the small elephant on the door next to the Central Kitchen restaurant. Once inside, a steep staircase will lead you into a small room lined on one side by a series of sexy booths and on the other by a platform that supports more bohemian seating (aka rugs, low tables and loose seat cushions). A DJ spins in the corner, visible only through a jagged hole in the brick wall that sequesters him from patrons.

Anticipating a night out in Cambridge, one should stop here first if in the mood for a fancy cocktail. Best to try is any champagne and berry combination they offer. Warning: these could leave you with a heady desire for a hookah. The bar is only open from 5:30 until 11, serving the early crowd, so get there early to make the most of your visit. It may be pricey, but the value of watching a group of douchily decked-out dudes seat themselves "casually" on floor cushions in front of you is well worth the cost and time you may have to wait for a drink.

Once you're done schmoozing and ready to really booze, head across the street to the Cantab Lounge for less talk and more action.

Cantabulous

The Cantab Lounge has been open at 738 Mass. Ave. for over 15 years, and has served as a legitimate live music venue since its inception. The vibe here is dive with a twist of old-school charm.The middle-aged bartenders there know how to make a stiff drink and the crowd is as eclectic as the musical performers.

Thursday nights there always feature the Chicken Slacks, a well-known local group whose mix of original timeless funk tunes will having you waving your bourbon-filled dixie cup in the air in no time. Not only are the Chicken Slacks funkalicous, but their lead singer Diamond D is a dead ringer for Samuel L. Jackson with the voice of James Brown. He'll even come offstage and shake it with you if he likes your moves.

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Wally's Cafe: Old-School Jazz

A couple of blocks away from Symphony Hall in the South End, depending on who you talk to as it borders Roxbury, sits Wally’s Café. You won’t find coffee at Wally’s, but rather steaming hot jazz.

Wally’s is in a nondescript brownstone on the corner of Mass. Ave. and Columbus (427 Mass. Ave. to be precise). Near boarded up buildings, if it is winter, you might just walk right by without noticing it. But on a hot summer night, the music and the people spill out onto the sidewalk, giving you a clue as to what you will find inside.

While I have been a fan lately of Beehive, mainly because of my need to multitask (dinner and music, two down in one shot), Wally’s has long been one of my favorite spots. It’s casual and easy to get to, and, as with most things authentically Boston, it is steeped in history.

They opened at a time when that stretch of Mass. Ave. was literally covered with jazz and blues clubs. That was the scene. The place to be. All are now gone except for Wally’s, which is still owned by the family of its founder Joseph Walcott. It is also blocks away from not just Symphony Hall, but also Berklee College of Music and the New England Conservatory of Music.

It is that proximity that provides the energy to the club. While they have set bands that have the place booked 365 days a year, there are always spontaneous jam sessions as musicians wander in and are welcome to sit in for a spell.

There’s nothing pretentious or upscale about Wally’s. It’s the same neighborhood spot that it has always been since the late 40s. There’s no cover, but there is a two-drink minimum. You may be lucky enough to get a seat at the bar or at one of the few tables that line the narrow room that ends at the stage, but once the music starts, it’s generally standing room only. (The photo here was taken very early in the evening.) If you can’t make it to the bar, the waitress will probably find you as you get jostled around with the crowd.

Little has changed over the years. When the state changed the smoking law the air got a little cleaner. And while it’s nice to go home without reeking of cigarette smoke, the atmosphere got a little more sterile as well. (While I don’t smoke and appreciate the smoke-free environment everywhere else, there’s something about smoke and jazz that seems to go together.) While the bar is well-stocked, they have only recently added a grill behind the counter. But if you get hungry during the night, your best bet is to pop out to the local pizza place on the corner. The current owners, the children of the founder, have also done a pretty good job promoting the place. But while it’s become less of a hidden gem and more of a tourist spot, there is still the feel that it’s really our local spot.

So, if you are looking for a night of hot jazz and ice cold beer, Wally’s is the place to go. Just don’t tell anyone I told you!

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Eat Your Heart Out, Newbury Street

Most of the time, I try very hard not to buy too many clothes, but when I do go shopping I prefer small boutiques. It’s not because I’m snobby and care about labels, but I simply have a difficult time picking out clothes and deciphering between cheap chic and doomed dress. Upscale boutiques have taken away the questionable choices and left me to pick from clothes that won’t end up embarrassing me.

That said, it can be expensive to shop that way so I have to avert my eyes at times when walking through the North End. Yes, that’s right, the North End. Although it’s well established as Boston’s Italian enclave and most people only think of chianti and cannoli, it actually has a surprising number of charming boutiques at which to shop. Of course, too many glasses of wine and more than one pastry and you won’t have to worry about spending money on clothes.

Twilight is one of the more upscale women’s clothing stores in the neighborhood and has racks of party dresses — it’s like walking into a dream. The unique dresses are from designers like Nanette Lepore, Nicole Miller, and Betsy Johnson. The ladies that work here are also very sweet and don’t have the attitude that seems to accompany some of the staff on Newbury Street. If you have an event that you need to look fabulous for, go here. If you don’t have the big bucks, the shop carries some surprisingly low-priced accessories that will make any basic cocktail dress pop.

Just a few blocks away and you’re at the door of in-jean-ius, which will make the nightmare of finding the perfect pair of jeans a million times better. The store carries over 30 different brands of jeans and the staff knows their stuff. They’ll be able to assess your body and get you in a pair of pants that flatter your shape from all angles. Again, these are jeans that come with a hefty price tag, but feeling good about how you look is worth it.

Finally, I have to mention Shake the Tree, which is located on Salem Street. Unlike the two stores above, in addition to clothes Shake the Tree also offers some home design products, like serving bowls, dish sets, and table decorations. They carry an incredible selection of accessories and it is hard to walk out without buying a new purse. Also, the store frequently hosts parties where they serve champagne and wine to customers while designers have trunk shows or another special occasion is being celebrated. So if you spend $200 on a purse and a pair of earrings, at least you had a free glass of bubbly to help ease the pain!  

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A Classic Song Selling Classic Wares

Poor Little Rich Girl

If you've been on a self-imposed shopping freeze since the Great Crash of 2008, freeze no more. Raspberry Beret is the perfect locale to peruse quality clothing and accessories at thrift store prices. Located at 1704 Mass. Ave in Porter Square, this beacon of clothes-clutching holiness is a consignment shop with a boutique feel and rare, vintage wares.

What I love most about shopping vintage is the unique items you're guaranteed to find. Every piece has a history, and the craftsmanship you can find in a well-kept Chanel wallet from the 60s just doesn't exist anymore. Raspberry Beret has applied highly-specialized vintage shop principles to a consignment store model. Acquisitions are selective (by appointment only) so that you will never find a faded, ripped or hokey piece within its fuscia-colored walls. The result: a host of quality finds that would take hours of scouring to find in a thrift store setting.

I was lured there by a vintage-loving friend and was immediately blown away by the variety of selections that ranged from modern staples to one-of-a-kind prints and accessories. The store track featuring, among others, Bjork, the Yeah Yeah Yeahs and The New Pornographers bolstered my urge to luxuriate in the shop's endless eye candy. Fab finds included a classic Calvin Klein summer dress for $25 dollars and a hand-beaded clutch for $5.

The staff of young hipsters was equal parts friendly and fashion savvy. Many of them, as I found, are artists and designers in their own rite. The store even features some pieces they've personally re-designed to comply with modern trends. As a result, staffers have a unique familiarity with the shop's wares which lends itself well to informed recommendations on pieces and accessories that will compliment your personal taste.

Unlike similar locales, the layout is kept clean and organized. Curtained dressing rooms in the back and bins housing $2 accessories were an added bonus. Raspberry Beret is a definite must-try alternative for personal shopping, and I would recommend it for gift shopping as well. After all, what friend would scoff at a bohemian beaded necklace or Gucci scarf? The only forseeable obstacle might be your hesitation at handing it over. In that case, keep this little treasure to yourself and refer your friends to Target when they ask about your chic digs.

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Hole-in-the-Wall? More Like Hole-Lotta-Fun!

Every neighborhood I've lived in has housed that perfect bar. You know the one. It becomes your Cheers -- the place you go when your boyfriend dumps you, when you've had a bad day at work, when you need to get out of the house on Saturday night and don't feel like taking off your pajama pants. When I first moved to Boston, this bar eluded me. Everywhere was too crowded, too pretentious or tended by indifferent employees. Then my roommate started working at The Avenue.

The search for a sweet spot ended here. This tiny treasure is situated down the street from my apartment at 1249 Commonwealth Avenue in Allston. Although advertised as a friendly sports bar due to its host of ESPN-tuned televisions, The Avenue is better known among locals as the premier holding area for those looking to drink cheap before moving on to Allston's pricier music venues.

"The Ave," as it's commonly referred to, boasts $1.00 drafts (there are over two dozen on tap) and 25 cent wings every night of the week. There's never a cover, and the menu selection offers a variety of tasty choices ranging from veggie sandwiches to greasy burritos. The front room is lined with windows so that one can survey the buzzing Allston street scene while cozily tossing back a brew.

Keep returning and you'll get to know the endless cast of characters that make this dive unique, from John the Red Sox Jersey guy who watches every game from his favorite stool to Tommy the tattooed bartender, who hearts his pit bull almost as much as his mother. Unlike other dives, the Ave's crowd of chatty young professionals, broke musicians and sports fans is always carefully observed by an unassuming crew of black-clad bouncers. They stay out of the way, but one word from you and Tommy will have the lecherous oaf to your left tossed out on his Dickies-clad bum.

I spent my first night there alternately people-watching and chatting with like-minded tables. A series of arcade consoles situated in the back provide potentially endless entertainment (for participants and observers alike). Doorman Dave can frequently be spotted playing Deer Hunter against jolly indie rockers, while the claw machine stocked with porno DVDs patiently awaits its next drunk victim.

The Ave's piece de resistance would have to be the Beerzilla, a cylindrical contraption with a spout that holds 15 beers for $20.00. The Beerzilla can only be ordered by tables seating four or more patrons (but that doesn't necessarily mean the purchaser has to share). One thing I wouldn't recommend is ordering wine, which will earn you an awkward look from your server and a potentially long wait as they may have to fetch one of the three never-used bottles from the basement to satisfy your request.

So if, like me, you've been searching for beer love in all the wrong places, drop in for a pint before heading to the $10.00 cover at Joshua Tree or Wonder Bar. I guarantee you'll want to stay.

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The Beehive -- Live Jazz

Located in Boston’s South End, on 541 Tremont Street as part of the Boston Center for the Arts complex, the Beehive is one of the newest spots in the city for live jazz, a quick drink, or dinner out.

Sandwiched between longtime icon Hamersley’s Bistro and newcomer Sibling Rivalry restaurants, the Center for the Arts is a old converted warehouse that is home to artists’ studios and small theaters. Now the backyard to several pricy condos and dotted with tony shops, this corner of the South End has seen many changes since the turn of the last century when it was the wholesale flower district and the area was dotted with flower markets and rooming houses.

In the past few years, the area has undergone a renaissance of sorts with the opening of the nearby Calderone Pavilion theater. Far outpacing the local theaters in terms of pricing and seating, the theater has also been a boost to nearby eateries, raising the bar on expectations for quality and, of course, price.

Darryl Settles (of Bob the Chef’s fame) leads the team that opened Beehive two years ago in an attempt to re-create the atmosphere of La Ruche, the bohemian Paris artists’ colony from the early 20th century. (La Ruche is French for beehive.) The atmosphere is definitely spot on. While the upstairs is a quieter bar area, the descent down the wide, carpeted stairs does take you back in time. Everything from the lighting to the color scheme is a rich golden hue. The brick walls are painted yellow and the lighting is provided by chandeliers or exposed antiqued bulbs. Original art for sale covers the walls. While the space is cavernous, the feel is intimate. There are plenty of nooks and crannies and wide open spaces, so that you can either hide out at a cozy table for two or gather for drinks at the bar.

The menu is Mediterranean inspired with a variety of treasures. The duck risotto is especially nice, and if you are looking for comfort food you can’t beat the grilled cheese with short ribs. The sandwich is crammed full with meat that cuts with a fork. Prices are moderate. Sandwiches and appetizers can be had for around $15, main dishes for $20-25. Perhaps the best part about the food, though, is that it is served late. (The kitchen closes at 1 a.m. and the bar at 2.)

And then, of course, there’s the jazz. Settles is tuned into the local music scene from his years at Bob the Chef’s. The Beehive’s stage is swarming with activity seven nights a week, and also weekend mornings as an accompaniment to brunch, all with no cover charge.

A left-handed compliment comes from, of all places, the guy mixing the drinks. On a recent visit, the bartender, sporting a pork pie hat and a baggy black T-shirt and jeans, had this to say: “You know, it’s not the best food in the world, it doesn't have the best wine list, but when people leave, they say ‘I like that place.’ No one ever leaves unhappy.” Read More...

Sayonara, Stop & Shop!

I guess it’s because I grew up in the suburbs but I’ve always been pretty set in my ways about shopping at large chain grocery stores. I generally find my preferred shopping outlet in whatever town I’m living in at the time and I stick with it. Even after some time spent living abroad where I enjoyed shopping at local markets most days to pick up whatever it was I wanted to cook for dinner, I quickly fell back into my convenient rut upon my return to the States.

But now that I’m living in Boston, I find myself moving away from chain grocery stores and instead shopping at local specialty stores in the neighborhood. This might be because driving in this city gives me an anxiety attack — the road rage I’ve encountered on Boston’s streets has encouraged me to stay out of the car and stick to shopping at stores I can walk to. But I take this as a blessing in disguise, because I have come to appreciate the quality of products you can get and the relationships you can make when you shop small. Three of my favorite local shops follow.

DePasquale’s Homemade Pasta Shoppe

DePasquale’s Pasta is a new and welcome addition to the North End. The store sells a variety of freshly made pasta, like lobster tagliatelle, spinach linguine, and gnocchi, and a variety of stuffed pasta which you can watch being made in the shop daily. My favorites so far have been the artichoke and goat cheese ravioli, which I topped with a light marinara, and the sausage and apple ravioli, which combined the spicy sausage with just the right balance of sweet apple. The packages of ravioli have enough to serve two and only cost $5.95. The store also stocks everything you need to whip up a quick sauce at home, down to garlic and shallots. Besides the delicious food, the manager, Joe, is always helpful and friendly with his customers and that service lends a personal touch to grocery shopping.

The Vegetable Guy

Now I love a farmers’ market as much as the next urban-eco-friendly-wanna-be hipster, but the closest one to the North End is Haymarket, and you couldn’t pay me to eat the stinky fruit and vegetables from there that are practically rotten. A better alternative is to buy produce from The Vegetable Guy (this is how the store is known in the neighborhood). The storefront on Parmenter Street is nondescript to say the least — it doesn’t have a name out front and the window is a little dark — but you can recognize it by the green awning. Although it’s not much from the outside, or inside for that matter, they do have all the quality, fresh fruits and veggies you would find at the grocery store and the owner is always ready to offer you advice on how to pick your produce. There aren’t any prices on the products — your selection is weighed and then they tell you the cost — but I always feel that I’m being treated fairly and that the prices are reasonable. They don’t accept credit cards, so make sure you have cash when you stop in.

This is not "The" vegetable guy, but he's one of the friendly staff members

Salumeria Italiana

Once you’ve picked up your veggies, cross over Hanover Street to Richmond and stop into the Salumeria Italiana. This shop has an incredible selection of cheese and cured meat (the prosciutto is especially delicious), olive oils, and vinegars. They also have an antipasto deli counter with hot peppers, olives, artichokes, and roasted peppers that has saved more than one dinner party for me when I was short on time. A bonus is that the staff is knowledgeable and able to offer suggestions on the meals you’re making.

So with one shopping tote, 20 minutes, and a nice walk around the neighborhood, you can be well on the way to preparing a delicious meal that you can feel good about eating for more than one reason.

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Fine Italian ...Deli?

Vinnie's in Somerville is an eatery suffering from an identity crisis. The sign on the outside may say 'Subs and Deli', but once inside, you can't help noticing that in addition to the standard deli counter, there is a full on Italian restaurant in the back of the store, complete with red curtains and wrought iron scrollwork at the "entrance".



In fact, once 6 o'clock hits, the deli counter closes down and the joint turns into Vinnie's at Night, a Zagat rated hidden gem with a menu that could rival any restaurant in the North End.


Heavy on old school Italian classics like pasta al forno, veal marsala and a lasagne stuffed so thick with their very own home made sausage, the food is both unexpected and divine. The restaurant even makes fresh fusili and linguine daily, an uncommon and authentic touch, which you can have with any of the house sauces. The effect is food that tastes as home-made as if someone's Italian grandma was cooking for you. Seafood lovers will not be dissapointed either, with appetizers like littleneck clams in garlic oil, and main courses that include scallops in rich cream sauce on some of that fresh fusili. Deserts are the usual suspects in any fine Italian restaurant: tiramisu, cannolis, and limoncello sorbet to name a few.

The best part is that only locals know about it, so it's not overcrowded. The entire ad campaign for Vinnie's at Night consists of a sheet of white paper pasted to the entrance of the deli notifying patrons of the restaurant's summer hours. Patrons inside give off the easy vibe of neighborhood regulars who've been in-the-know for years, although trendy young couples occasionally saunter in. This delectable, unexpected little restaurant is definately a hidden gem worth checking out.

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Baked goods? 25 cents. The view? Priceless.

They Don't Nickel and Dime You

Discouraged by Boston's sales tax hike? Never fear -- Italo's Bakery sure knows the value of a quarter.

Outside, it's just your average corner shop on a dilapidated stretch of Medford's Main Street. But inside, fresh-baked sugar-packed cookies await, all for twenty-five cents a piece. I'd tried the chocolate-sprinkle covered treats before, courtesy of Tina, who frequents Italo's enough to qualify for addiction support groups. But when she drove me and Jen on Sunday to size up the bakery mano a mano, it turned out my mano was bigger than my mouth was.

Two bite-size neapolitan cake cookies, two chocolate chip the size of my palm, one Portuguese sweet roll doused with a healthy (well, okay, let's say generous) dribble of icing, and two slices of square-shaped Sicilian pizza. The total? Four dollars. No wonder the Yelp crowd is licking their lips. Be warned, the pizza might be cold, but it was perfect for an outdoor picnic at the Citadel over in Somerville.

Splendor in the Grass
On the green just beneath this respectable Revolutionary War edifice, the three of us spread out on picnic blankets, sated our sweet teeth, tossed around a Frisbee, and learned a smidgeon of American history.
Though the Citadel is a semi-important landmark, the T doesn't exactly shuttle us subway snobs out there. But if you're fortunate to have friends with cars, I highly recommend coming here, and not just for the smell of fresh grass or age-old battle-lust. Seeing the skyline of Boston, as well as Cambridge stretching out beneath you, is truly as sweet as the confectionery. Feel free to indulge.

Jen and I, navigating our journey back into town. You can almost make out the Fenway CITGO sign, off to the right. Like the North Star of Boston.

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North End Feasts: Fried Food and Fun

August is one of the best times of year to head over to the North End, Boston's Italian neighborhood. Yes, it’s hot, humid, and the crowd of tourists chomping on cannolis at Mike’s Pastry creates impassable barrier. But, if you can manage to elbow your way through the crowd on Hanover Street it’s worth it to make your way to the end of the block, where each weekend a new celebratory festival is in full swing. 

The Catholic heritage of the Italian residents of the North End is never more evident than the end of summer, when feasts are held each weekend in honor of various saints. If you’re not Catholic — don’t that let that stop you. To be honest, I’m more into the pasta than the prayers. The various religious organizations set up the weekends with a mixture of fun, fanfare, and faith, but the events feel more like carnivals than church.

Sections of Hanover Street and other neighborhood streets are cordoned off to make way for booths serving up delicious Italian street food. My favorite is arancini, fried rice balls that are filled with either meat and peas or spinach. (check out the picture) It’s worth an extra hour at the gym to enjoy.

But don’t stop there, because there’s plenty more (which also means more time on the treadmill). There’s delicious fresh seafood — clams, shrimp, lobster, and calamari — and all sorts of Italian subs and pasta dishes. The smells are so wonderful you’ll start drooling blocks away. If you have room for dessert, you can save yourself the crowds at Mike’s and grab a cannoli from one of the street vendors, share some fried dough, or if you’ve had enough Italian food, get a frozen banana freshly dipped in chocolate to cool you down on the hot day.

If you’re not as interested in fried food as I am, you can keep the visit interesting by grabbing a pitcher in the beer pavilion or playing some of the fun carnival games that are set up. Your competition will be little children, so be prepared to hear some smack talk if you don’t walk away from the stand with a stuffed animal or some other equally unusable prize.

After food, beers, and games, keep walking to get to the concert area. Different bands play throughout the days and it’s great to dance or just pause to people watch. You won’t be disappointed by what you see. The man in the picture below has been planted in his chair right in front of the stage each feast weekend so far.

The first two feast weekends have already happened. The pictures in this post are from the Feast of Saint Agrippina which was the first weekend of August. But, here’s a schedule of what’s coming next and links to those that have event web sites:

August 7 - 9, 2009 

Madonna Della Cava Society

Feast Celebration

Battery & Hanover Streets

August 13 - 16, 2009 

Annual Fisherman's Feast of the 
Madonna Del Soccorso di Sciacca Society of Boston

Feast Celebration

Fleet & North Streets

Schedule of Events Click here

August 28 - 30, 2009 

Annual Saint Anthony's Feast of 
San Antonio Di Padova Da Montefalcione, Inc.

Feast Celebration 

Thatcher & Endicott Streets

Schedule of Events Click here

August 31, 2009

St. Lucy Society
Feast Celebration 

Thatcher & Endicott Streets

Schedule of Events Click here

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When it rains, it pours. Even in summer.

Boston doesn’t have the reputation of being a super rainy city, like my hometown Seattle. However, I have found raingear to be more necessary here than in any other city I have lived in.

It’s not that it rains all the time in Boston, it’s just that when it rains, it pours. And the drainage system for the city streets is terrible — puddles nearly a foot deep accumulate at crosswalks, particularly in the Back Bay. The water is murky with urban grime, and its impossible to gage the depth until it's too late, and you have entirely submerged your sneakers (I speak from multiple experiences).

Seasoned Bostonians, I came to learn, own a pair of galoshes. Fortunately, retailers offer a lot of options, from plaid patterns at Target (24.99) and discounted polka dots at Filenes Basement (14.99) to super-shiny J. Crew Wellingtons ($115) and signature C print Coach boots ($108).

Over the past year, here are some things I have learned about rain boots:

• Make sure the inner sole is well adhered to the inside of the boot. The sole can come unglued in cheaper versions (specifically the aforementioned Filene’s polka dots), making your trek through the rain even more uncomfortable.

• Buy the boots a little bit bigger to accommodate thick wool socks – essential for warm feet when the rain turns to sleet.

• Don’t leave your boots behind at a bar just because it stopped raining and you had one martini too many. (Unless they are the cheap kind and you were going to buy new ones anyway. I wonder if Eastern Standard still has my old pair…)

My favorites boots for both quality and price are Marc by Marc Jacobs ($28). They are well made and come in black with a variety of bright trim colors. They are available in stores only, but fortunately there is a shop conveniently located on Newbury. Galoshes in summer? With the unsummer-like weather earlier this season (hello global warming), I’ve already had a chance to test them out and am ready for fall!

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Taste of Spain in Brookline

Boston has its share of tapas bars, but to me, none have lived up to Taberna de Haro, on the Brookline/Boston border on Beacon Street in the Audubon Circle (at the St. Mary's stop on the green C line). At first glance, this small 10-table restaurant has no physical redeeming features. Its sign is plastic and its nearest culinary neighbors are Dunkin Donuts and a Chinese restaurant. Don’t pass this place by, as you’ll be rewarded by its authentic Spanish ambience as you step inside. European memorabilia, a bookcase of cookbooks, funky decorations, and wine bottles line the mustard walls—and helpful, Spanish-speaking waitstaff are quick to make you feel welcome. For a quick, casual bite, do as the Spanish do, and sit at the three-seat bar.


Tapas, meaning “small plates,” are meant to be shared around the table, and my friends and I usually chose two to three each. Even the pickiest eaters will find something on this extensive menu of over fifty items ($4 to $25). Written in Spanish with descriptions in English, it is organized by house specialties, meat, fowl, fish, and vegetables. My roommate lived in Seville and had told me to order the traditional tortilla, a simple egg and potato dish, and pisto, a sort of ratatouille, which must be tried. I had never tried fava beans, and was pleasantly surprised at how delish they were when fried up with Spanish ham and served in a little ceramic dish.

You can experiment with the exotic, too. Try the half rabbit roasted with brandy, sautéed frog legs, and duck leg with brandy reduction. I highly recommend the chorizo braised in sparkling cider, which combines salty, spicy sausage with a sticky sweet sauce. Each dish pairs simple, quality ingredients with the right combination of garlic, extra virgin olive oil, and spices. Add a bottle or two off their wine list, from $26 to $150. You have over 150 bottles to choose from, but I like the cava, a traditional Spanish sparkling wine or sherry.

Take advantage of Boston’s excruciatingly short summer by dining on their sidewalk umbrella-ed tables. The wait is a bit longer, but it is worth it since outdoor dining is a rare commodity in Brookline and allows for prime people-watching. To sit outside, each person needs to order food at a minimum of $20, so don’t plan to come for sunset drinks only. In the European spirit, plan to spend a leisurely few hour siesta with friends, a smorgasbord of plates, and a creamy flan dessert.

999 Beacon Street
Brookline MA 02446
617 277 8272
Hours: Closed on Sunday
Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10:00
Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11:00

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Toro, toro!

For some, it’s because of the recession. Others (such as graduate students and artists) must mind their spending regardless of the stock market. Either way, everyone is on a look out for the bargain these days.

This can be particularly difficult in the way of dining. Sure, you can find cheap eats a lot of places in the city, but where to turn when your inner foodie can’t stand another morsel of sub-par Mexican food or PB&J?

I head to Ken Oringer’s Toro. There, you can nibble on Spanish tapas, sip great wine, and enjoy the voguish atmosphere – all without blowing the month’s food budget.

Toro is located on Washington Street in the South End, a neighborhood known for its eclectic and outstanding restaurants. Dimly lit and usually jam-packed, Toro is easily one of the best. The cuisine is innovative, delicious, and affordable - pinchos and tapas range from just $4-$15. There is a lot to choose from, so here are a few of my favorites:

Datiles con Jamon Medjool: dates stuffed with Marcona almonds and Cabrales blue cheese, wrapped in Serrano ham ($6)

Atun Pincho: tuna tartare with coconut milk and lime ($7)

Maíz Asado con Aioli y Queso Cotija: grilled corn with aioli, lime, espelette pepper and aged cheese ($6)

Bistec de Faldilla a la Plancha: grilled hanger steak with Cabrales butter and red onion marmalade ($12)

Honestly, I have fantasies about the corn and the steak on a regular basis. More adventurous eaters might go for the beef heart ($5) or the Erizos en Suquet – a Catalan stew featuring sea urchin ($13). The desserts, however, are underwhelming.

Wines by the glass range from $5-$12, served true Spanish-style in a rocks glass. And the better part is that the $5 garnacha is actually good.

Toro Tidbits:

• Of the two unisex bathrooms, try to use the first one, which features a really great rendering of a modern-day Frida Kahlo holding a 40 of Olde English and with Diego tattooed on her neck.

• For all of the culinary fabulousness, the service is pretty basic. Don’t expect to be fawned over.

• Toro doesn’t take reservations, so after 7 on a Friday or Saturday night (especially for larger groups), be prepared for a pretty long wait. In the meantime, try The Gypsy (Plymouth gin, yellow Chartruese, St. Germain Elderflower liqueur, lime).

• The first Thursday of each month is Industry Night. After 10pm, the kitchen sends around platters of free snacks and the bar offers either tall boys or 40s for a couple of bucks.

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The Devil Went Down to Boston: BBQ at Soul Fire

I have this suspicion that everybody secretly adores finger-lickin' home-cooking from the American South. Back in May, I traveled to Ireland and was astounded by the number of KFCs around. Since when did fried chicken become a trans-Atlantic phenomenon? And when I last visited New York, a hole-in-the-wall touted exotic delicacies like cole slaw.


Everyone here in Boston knows about Redbones, out by Davis, but it's an awful long journey for us below the Charles. So imagine my excitement to find barbecue half a block off the Green Line: Soul Fire at 182 Harvard Ave in Allston. The walls are red, the music is often country, and the sweet iced tea flows. Oh, I haven't left Virginia.

Unlike the finest Southern BBQ establishments, there's no front porch and the floorboards don't creak. But when I dined last week, I accepted the city ambience. It all comes down to the meat. So how did Soul Fire get right down to my Virginia roots?

Generosity. For $10.95, I ordered the pulled pork platter, served with cornbread and two sides. Mine were rice 'n' beans and (bravely) collard greens, never my favorite but delicious with ham and hot sauce. And the platters arrived piled high: BBQ served on toast, overflowing; ample sides; and a fat hunk of cornbread. My friend Katie said her spicy honey "double" wings (6 for $9.75) were the largest she's seen up here.

Hospitality. Our waitress, with tattoos and nose piercings, was a Southern belle masquerading as a hipster. She gave us time to linger, grabbed refills with haste, and charmed Katie into an extra side of cornbread. (No "sugar"s or "darling"s in her speech, but give it time.)

Vinegar. Though tomato-based Virginia BBQ is delectable, those with BBQ in their blood profess allegiance to North Carolina's vinegar style. Soul Fire knows what's what. Their pork came doused in vinegar and hot peppers, with extra fixin's on the table: four sauces ranging from sweet to spicy. And the collard greens? Also vinegared, also delicious.

Soul Fire is blessedly unapologetic for the urban environment. Under Vegetarian Entrees, the menu just lists a catfish platter -- and even that's fried! But when I'm hankering for baby backs, chopped brisket, or a wistful country evening, Soul Fire might just be my home away from home.

Public transit: Take the 66 bus or the Green B Line to the Harvard Ave. stop. Soul Fire's right up from the McDonald's. Read More...

Formaggio Kitchen

Late Saturday afternoons usually call for a delicious snack of some kind. My roommate and I generally like to reward ourselves with treats after we jog around Fresh Pond, and today was no exception.

The Formaggio Kitchen is owned by Ihsan and Valerie Gurdal. Ihsan, from Istanbul, manages the Cambridge location, while Valerie runs the South End location. The Cambridge store is the original, however, and also boasts the country’s first installation of underground cheese caves that maintain their enormous variety of fromage at the ideal temperature and humidity levels.

The shop is a handy 15-minute walk from my house. As we approached the storefront we could see a line of people standing out front. Saturdays feature an outdoor barbeque during the summer months. Two store employees—today it was Vinnie and Tripp—work a grill and keep the food coming as the long as there’s a line, or until 2:30.
Once inside, we were overwhelmed by our options, as usual. Craft beer or flavored sparkling water? Mangoes or champagne grapes? Chevre or Comte? The options are endless, for the Formaggio shelves are literally packed with anything you could ever want in a specialty produce/grocery/cheese/wine/bakery/and meat shop. Local and international sources provide honey, cheese, olive oil, pasta, teas, chocolate, coffee, sweet breads, jams, pickles…you name it, it’s likely that they have it. An added bonus is the sprinkling of free cheese and pastry samples scattered throughout the store, and on top of all this sensory stimuli, they were offering tastings of a wine and cheese pairing on one side of the store.

I’ll be honest about the prices: they are steep. But, given the international, sustainable, and small-scale production qualities of many of their products, this comes as no surprise. I wind up with a pint of pasta from the deli counter (oh yes, they also have freshly made salads, sandwiches, and various side dishes) with pea tendrils and summer squash, a fresh apricot, and a Boylan's orange seltzer. Tony opted for some roasted fingerling potatoes and a sundried tomato bulgur wheat concoction.

Outdoor seating is limited (to about 4 or 5 small tables, all of which were full), so we parked it right on the curb and ate with glee. I highly recommend this place to anyone even remotely in specialty foods—especially beer and cheese. They have a phenomenal selection (you can try any of the cheeses if you just ask), and enough craft beer to keep even the biggest beer snobs happy—try Pretty Things’ Jack D’or from local Cambridge brewers Dann and Martha Paquette and tell me you’re not satisfied.

Formaggio Kitchen
244 Huron Ave., Cambridge, MA
617-354-4750
Monday - Friday: 9 am - 7 pm

Saturday: 9 am - 6 pm

Sunday: 10 am - 4 pm

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Looking for a Good Read?

Now that it’s finally warm and sunny outside, bibliophiles are taking advantage of the summer weather to bring their books outdoors. And if you are looking for more fodder for your reading list, skip the chain store—check out Brattle Book Shop!















Located in the heart of Downtown Crossing, this family-owned store has been there since 1825. The charm of the stacks upon stacks of books you’ll find here is that the stock runs more toward classics and out-of-print titles than what is on the New York Times bestseller list. People who love the old book smell and the feel of old bindings should feel at home: Brattle’s deals entirely in second-hand books, so there’s a strong chance many of the literary gems you’ll find are older than you are!

Naturally, the upstairs section of the shop is devoted entirely to rare editions, for those who aren’t prone to sticker shock. But lovers of old books don’t have to be rolling in cash to find something valuable here.

The biggest draw for Brattle’s has to be its outdoor lot. Directly adjacent to the store, and adorned with murals of famous authors, this is the place to go (weather permitting) to hunt for a really good buy. The carts are wheeled out, bearing labels of $5, $3, or $1, and have no other organization whatsoever.

But as any regular will testify, the fun is in searching through the offerings. And often something more contemporary does pop up (I've seen Stephen King, for instance), so don’t discount Brattle’s if you like newer books!

You will have to browse diligently, and return often—stock is always being transferred to the carts from the indoor shelves. But the reward is in opening your mind and finding just the book you didn’t know you were looking for.

It may be yellowed, annotated by a previous reader, or worn around the edges. But at such a price (a dollar! come on!), who can resist adding some character and dignity to their bookshelf?

Follow Brattle’s Book Shop on Twitter to see what’s new in the store, and whether the carts are out when the skies look cloudy. They're open Monday-Saturday, 9:00-5:30 (and word to the wise: the carts are pulled back inside around 5).

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Hassle-Free Fireworks Show

Every Bostonian knows that setting out at the crack of dawn on July 4th just to secure a spot fairly close to the Esplanade on the Charles River in order to watch the fireworks show, is strictly for tourists, die-hards, and university students who live close enough to foot it back home after 11 o’ clock at night. Although seeing the show that close up is a must at least once, it’s a tedious all-day affair that loses its charm pretty much after the first time. Luckily, residents of Somerville don’t have to put with all that planning and rig-ma-role.

At around 20 minutes before the fireworks show starts, we all head to The Castle on Prospect Hill Avenue, a monument erected to commemorate a decisive battle in the Revolutionary War of Independence and the site where the first true American flag (of the thirteen colonies) was raised. The grassy slope of The Castle overlooks the entire city below and provides a great view of the fireworks show exactly where everyone else sees it: in the sky above the city’s skyscrapers. We all huddle on the grass in good spirits because we spent the day barbequing instead of fighting the crowds on the riverbank. The great thing is that there’s no crowded T-ride home, but the best part is the double significance of seeing the Independence Day fireworks from an actual battle ground of the war that made it possible, and where the first flag of the nation was raised.

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Artsy Weekend in Somerville

Looking for art in this city isn’t hard, but the great majority of it might not be where you might think to look. Sure, museums like the Museum of Fine Arts or the Isabella Stewart Gardener Museum are well touted in any Boston visitor’s guide, not to mention the many daytrips out to the Berkshires, like the Norman Rockwell Museum or the Mass Moca, but what those guides don’t tell you is that many neighborhoods in and around the city host their own walking art shows—the Open Studio weekend.

The largest of these is hosted by the city of Somerville just outside Boston. For the first weekend in May very spring, the city’s many resident painters, sculptors and photographers open the doors of their private art studios to the droves of people making their way on foot trying to see as many of them as possible. The Somerville Open Studios weekend is completely free and the city prints walk-able maps which they post copies of at bus stops for weeks before the event. Nibbling on cheese and sipping on wine from studio to studio is the cherry on top of the whole day spent getting to know the art scene in Somerville on a personal level.

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Muddy River Fun

With the flowing water of a river surrounded by mature trees and upkept grass, you might think you are hours away from the hustle and noise of downtown Boston. Yet in less than 10 minutes, you can be in the serene of Riverway park, along the Muddy River. It runs from Fenway’s Landmark Center to the Longwood Medical area/Brookline Village. I just learned it was man-made (by Frederick Law Olmsted), which shocked me since it looks formed over thousands of years.

A combination of paved and dirt trail run along each side of the water, and at points along the T’s green D line, connecting to the Longwood stop. A scenic curved arched bridge also connects the two paths at one point, serving as the perfect locale to stop for a breather with a view of the water beneath you.


A sense of community (and safety) evolves from numerous runners, bikers, skaters, and dog-walkers. It’s not unusual to see a couple hand in hand, a bird-watcher, a reader on one of the many benches…and even the occasional sketchy dude with a shopping cart. I recently also saw a man practicing his trumpet—I kid you not. I haven’t, and wouldn’t, go after dark by myself since there are no lights.

If you are more into art than nature, a group of sculptures recently created an outdoor exhibition—the Studios without Walls—of 12 pieces of nature/community-based art, on view for free to all those who pass it. It was taken down at the end of June, but I get the impression it will be a yearly endeavor, so check back next summer!

As a runner, I appreciate the level ground, the partial shade, and the other runners for motivation. If you are a runner looking for a new course, the mileage and route encompassing the Riverway (and many more trails in Brookline, Boston, and other local neighborhoods) are outlined in the book Great Runs in Brookline and Vicinity.

A country mouse by heart, I often seek out the Riverway as a place to reconnect and get some quiet and fresh air. It is especially breathtaking in the fall when the leaves change color.

One word of advice: Beware of the geese. It’s hard not to ogle the adorable fluffy baby geese, but the large mamas are vicious and aggressive—and the poop aplenty. No one believes me, but I’ve also seen a majestic white swan swimming by, which is definitely something you wouldn’t expect—a real treat for the urban dweller. Read More...

Haverhill is Growing! Who's Going?

The older I get, the earlier I wake up. What seems like just a few short years ago, I was able to sleep past noon easily.


Now, I find myself aimlessly putting around the house at 8 a.m. if not 7 a.m., on Saturday mornings.

My sleeping habits really aren't the point, I promise.

Instead, I am giving you a reason to set your alarm clocks Saturday:The Haverhill Farmer's Market!

You may have already heard the buzz, as the Haverhill Gazette and Eagle Tribune both sang the market's praises after its seasonal debut on July 18.

The market is located on the edge of G.A.R. Park, and runs from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. I highly recommend showing up early. Last week the cheese, and eggs sold out quickly. This is going on every Saturday until Halloween this year.

The market offers fresh produce and dairy products from local vendors, but there are some unexpected finds including, live music, arts and crafts demonstrations, locally handmade jewelery and clothing. It's also a great place to bump into old friends and make new ones. Read More...